First published in Hospitality magazine, August/September 2007

Being a Head Chef is the tallest order in the kitchen. They have to be adept managers and motivators, drive a hard bargain, satisfy their investors, work long unsociable hours, keep an eye on safety and hygiene, be creative, keep ahead of the latest trends or legislation, talk to the media, balance the books – and be brilliant cooks too. It’s a hard and hectic life, where finding time to consider the wider implications of food service is increasingly difficult. Food provenance or the environmental consequence of food miles is therefore usually way down the list of priorities, even if it is close to a chef’s heart.

Busy restaurants, cafes or hotels have a huge degree of power in this respect. They make a big economic impact by employing staff and buying equipment, services and ingredients. They also have an influence on the reputation of an area. Everyone locally knows their nearest restaurant or hotel, and even if they haven’t actually been through the door, they have a perception of its reputation. It’s a responsibility and a community benefit that often goes unrecognised. At the highest level a well respected and successful restaurant can even contribute to the wider regeneration of a neighbourhood.  

Can anyone deny, for example, that Rick Stein’s first foray in Padstow, made a significant impact to a whole range of local businesses? It gives the impression that this fishing village is a gastronomic hot spot beyond his own company’s operations. Or that Paul Heathcote’s Michelin-starred Longridge restaurant, gives the small town an air of sophistication and recognition, which probably went unrecognised before he opened. Another example is the capital of the north west region. Conjure up an image of The Lowry, the Radisson Edwardian and the new Hilton on Deansgate and these hotels pretty much sum up the statement that Manchester wants to make about its future.

The reverse can also be true. Blackpool is battling hard against its “pies and fries” image, when in reality there are some real strides being made on the regeneration of the area and its hospitality offering. This progress is best evidenced by the chic Number One, Blackpool. A pebble’s throw from the Pleasure Beach it deservedly won the Bed and Breakfast of the Year, in the Enjoy England Awards, with hopes that this will inspire raised aspirations in surrounding businesses.

If the hospitality sector can influence a destination’s image, it can certainly make an impact on local producers by considering provenance and sustainability of its food supplies. Not only that, demonstrating local sourcing can greatly enhance new business. 

According to Mintel, Britons spend £2billion on “ethical foods” such as organic and locally grown, up 62% in the last four years. Office for National Statistics figures show that for the first time we now spend more money on eating out than we do on buying food to eat at home. The Institute of Grocery Distribution concludes that the hospitality sector is missing a trick. Its research shows that almost 75% of customers want to see local foods named on the menu.

In reality this is not happening, and yet it is so easy to do. Why put “cheese” on the menu when you can put “Mrs. Kirkham’s Creamy Lancashire”, or “lamb” when it could be “Cumbrian Fell Bred lamb”? Many restaurants are failing to recognise the hard nosed commercial value of local and seasonal food, believing it to be an additional, time consuming burden. At the same time the supermarket sector is scrabbling to supply customers with regional food because they know are willing to vote with their purses – and it gives them a caring image.

The restaurants that have made a conscious decision to source locally and shout about it on their menus, have found it makes good business sense. It helps chefs focus on their menus with a chance to acquire new knowledge on local producers and their techniques. Waiting staff can be briefed on sourcing policies, providing them with inspiring stories of how these products made their way to the table. It can lead to a more diverse and inspiring choice for the diner, and a sense of pride and loyalty amongst staff.

Some restaurants have gone further and are using local and seasonal food as a key part of their brand image. Malmaison has a food sourcing policy of within 30 miles wherever possible. It has become a platform for their marketing.

Nigel Haworth put local producers at the centre of his cooking long before it became fashionable. Nowhere is that better demonstrated than on his menu at The Three Fishes in Mitton – Port of Lancaster Smokehouse Kipper Fillet, Bob Kitchen’s Organic Day Old Lancashire Curd, Winnie Swarbrick’s Cornfed Goosnargh Chicken Liver Pate are just some of the local foods on offer.

Paul Askew grows his herbs on the roof of the Hope Street Hotel – and makes sure his customers know about it when they eat there. With the pressures on head chefs, it is difficult to find time to do the research on local suppliers. However, there are ways to shortcut the process. Sometimes it can just be as simple as going to the local farmers’ market to make contacts. The NW Fine Food website lists all farmers’ markets in the northwest and the best local producers in the region, searchable by product category or closeness to your own postcode.

There are also some good distributors who will help source for you, such as Bowland Forest Foods, Catering Connection or Plumgarth’s Farm Shop. The most famous and probably one of the most respected is Peter Papprill of Pendrill 1651 in Chester. He came to fame as “The Cheese Detective” appearing with Gary Rhodes. He is particularly passionate about the wonderful cheeses of the region, helping many food service operators take that first step into local sourcing.

You may be pressured in the kitchen, but if you want to put your restaurant or hotel on the map, source local and don’t forget to shout about it on the menu.

© Sue Nelson 2007